Publication: La construcción de marca a través del relato: el caso de las marcas de moda de lujo en Instagram
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2019-07-30
Defense date
2019-06-20
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Abstract
Desde hace algunos años, el mercado del lujo se ha visto profundamente alterado
por cambios globales como la llegada de países emergentes, la irrupción de las
nuevas tecnologías y el surgimiento de nuevos canales de comunicación. Este
nuevo contexto ha obligado a las marcas de moda de lujo a plantearse modos
distintos de llegar a sus clientes.
Al mismo tiempo, en algunos ámbitos como la educación, el periodismo o la
organización empresarial, se ha rescatado la práctica del storytelling como una
herramienta eficaz de comunicación con la que es posible conectar con púbicos
heterogéneos. Algunos autores (Fog, Budtz, Munch y Blanchette, 2010) defienden
un uso integral del storytelling también en el branding a través de la creación y
transmisión del relato de la marca.
El propósito de esta investigación es examinar de qué modo las marcas de moda
de lujo pueden construir y transmitir sus relatos a través de un nuevo canal de
comunicación como Instagram. Nos centramos en este servicio porque, como
hemos podido comprobar, se trata de un canal de comunicación clave en este
sector.
Uno de los primeros pasos de nuestro estudio ha consistido en revisar la literatura
que existe hasta la fecha sobre la creación de marcas de moda de lujo para
entender cómo es el escenario actual y de qué modo cabe incorporar en él la
estrategia de storytelling. Además, hemos profundizado en las características de
Instagram con el fin de comprender qué potencial ofrece para la comunicación
del relato de las marcas de moda de lujo. Una vez completado el marco teórico,
hemos procedido a analizar la actividad en Instagram de marcas de moda de lujo
de referencia.
Para ello hemos llevado a cabo una doble aproximación. Por una parte, hemos
elaborado un análisis de contenido de las publicaciones realizadas por 20 marcas
de moda de lujo previamente seleccionadas atendiendo a los criterios de
antigüedad, relevancia y actividad digital. La unidad de análisis ha sido el post o
publicación. El periodo de estudio ha comprendido un total de 6 meses desde el
1 de julio hasta el 31 de diciembre de 2017, con el propósito de recoger así la
actividad de las marcas en periodos de “normalidad” y también en periodos más
intensos.
El corpus ha quedado integrado por un total de 6.977 publicaciones que hemos
codificado a partir de un mismo código que ha incluido variables relativas al
contenido y otras a cuestiones de tipo formal. Para completar y enriquecer este
análisis, hemos querido contar con la visión de 9 expertos con quienes hemos
mantenido entrevistas en profundidad.
En general observamos que las marcas de moda de lujo todavía no han diseñado
estrategias específicas para Instagram. Sólo el 36,6% de las publicaciones que
hemos analizado tienen una intención narrativa. El resto obedece a un propósito
informativo y comercial, en el que Instagram queda reducido a una plataforma
donde exponer los productos a modo de escaparate virtual o mero tablón
informativo.
Advertimos también que existe poca diferencia entre los contenidos que publican
las marcas. La mayoría se comporta según un mismo patrón: presenta la marca
en espacios similares –habitualmente en eventos o con fondos neutros–, los personajes suelen encarnar un número reducido de arquetipos y las pocas caras
que aparecen suelen ser inexpresivas.
Las marcas tampoco aprovechan la capacidad que ofrece Instagram para
estimular la participación y generar comunidad. Sólo el 3,7% del total de la
muestra interactúa con los usuarios.
De esta forma, podemos concluir que las marcas analizadas no emplean todos
los recursos que ofrece Instagram para desarrollar el relato y satisfacer las
exigencias del mercado actual. Con el fin de trascender la crítica de un modo que
pueda resultar útil y transferible, ofrecemos una colección de buenas prácticas a
partir de la observación de la actividad en Instagram de algunas de las marcas de
moda de lujo de referencia.
In the last few years, the luxury market has been deeply affected by some global changes like the emergence of some developing countries, the irruption of new technologies and new communication channels. In this scenario, luxury fashion brands have been forced to explore new ways to reach their clients. At the same time, in some disciplines such as education, journalism or business organization, storytelling has resurged as an efficient communication tool to connect with heterogeneous audiences. Some authors (Fog, Budtz, Munch y Blanchette, 2010) propose the use of storytelling also in branding. The aim of this research is to evaluate how luxury fashion brands can build and tell their stories in new communication channels, such as Instagram, and how they are doing it already. We choose Instagram because, as we were able to confirm, nowadays it is a key communication channel in the fashion luxury industry. One of the first steps has been checking the literature about luxury fashion branding, to better understand the current scenario and how the storytelling strategy can be incorporated. In addition, we have deepened into Instagram´s features in order to figure out how can it boost luxury fashion brands. Once the theoretical frame was completed, we have analyzed luxury fashion brands’ activity on Instagram. For that purpose, we have used a quantitative technique as well as other qualitative one. In the first place, we have conducted a content analysis of luxury fashion brands’ posts. These brands were previously chosen based on their antiquity, relevance and digital activity. The analysis unit has been the post and the period of study has included 6 months, from July 1st to December 31st, 2017 to cover the brand´s activity in normal periods but also in more intense ones. The corpus consists of 6,977 posts that we have codified from a single code based in formal variables and others related to the content. To complete and enrich this analysis, we have conducted in-depth interviews with 9 experts on the issue. Broadly, we have observed that luxury fashion brands use Instagram without a specific strategy. Only 36.6% of the analyzed posts have a narrative purpose. The remaining has an informative and commercial intention and use Instagram merely as a product exhibition platform. We also note small differences between brands’ content. Most of the brands follow the same pattern. They take pictures in similar spaces –mostly events and neutral environments– and their characters embrace the same kind of inexpressive archetypes. Similarly, results show that, as social media, Instagram potential has not been fully explored nor for community engagement or to encourage users to take part. Only 3.7% of the post pursuit users’ interaction. We conclude that the analyzed brands underuse the potential that Instagram provides to develop the brand story and to satisfy the current market requirements. To transcend criticism in a useful and practical way, we present a collection of good practices obtained from observing the leading fashion luxury brands’ activity on Instagram.
In the last few years, the luxury market has been deeply affected by some global changes like the emergence of some developing countries, the irruption of new technologies and new communication channels. In this scenario, luxury fashion brands have been forced to explore new ways to reach their clients. At the same time, in some disciplines such as education, journalism or business organization, storytelling has resurged as an efficient communication tool to connect with heterogeneous audiences. Some authors (Fog, Budtz, Munch y Blanchette, 2010) propose the use of storytelling also in branding. The aim of this research is to evaluate how luxury fashion brands can build and tell their stories in new communication channels, such as Instagram, and how they are doing it already. We choose Instagram because, as we were able to confirm, nowadays it is a key communication channel in the fashion luxury industry. One of the first steps has been checking the literature about luxury fashion branding, to better understand the current scenario and how the storytelling strategy can be incorporated. In addition, we have deepened into Instagram´s features in order to figure out how can it boost luxury fashion brands. Once the theoretical frame was completed, we have analyzed luxury fashion brands’ activity on Instagram. For that purpose, we have used a quantitative technique as well as other qualitative one. In the first place, we have conducted a content analysis of luxury fashion brands’ posts. These brands were previously chosen based on their antiquity, relevance and digital activity. The analysis unit has been the post and the period of study has included 6 months, from July 1st to December 31st, 2017 to cover the brand´s activity in normal periods but also in more intense ones. The corpus consists of 6,977 posts that we have codified from a single code based in formal variables and others related to the content. To complete and enrich this analysis, we have conducted in-depth interviews with 9 experts on the issue. Broadly, we have observed that luxury fashion brands use Instagram without a specific strategy. Only 36.6% of the analyzed posts have a narrative purpose. The remaining has an informative and commercial intention and use Instagram merely as a product exhibition platform. We also note small differences between brands’ content. Most of the brands follow the same pattern. They take pictures in similar spaces –mostly events and neutral environments– and their characters embrace the same kind of inexpressive archetypes. Similarly, results show that, as social media, Instagram potential has not been fully explored nor for community engagement or to encourage users to take part. Only 3.7% of the post pursuit users’ interaction. We conclude that the analyzed brands underuse the potential that Instagram provides to develop the brand story and to satisfy the current market requirements. To transcend criticism in a useful and practical way, we present a collection of good practices obtained from observing the leading fashion luxury brands’ activity on Instagram.
Description
Keywords
branding, marcas, moda, lujo, marcas de moda de lujo, Storytelling, Instagram, buenas prácticas, engagement, comunicación, narración, comunidad, identidad, puesta en escena, relato, fashion, luxury, luxury fashion brands, good practices, communication, comunity, identity, performance, story